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Front wheel wells primered and ready to paint.

front suspension primered and ready to paint.

Paint the wheel wells.

Painted, wells. Nice!.

Getting there. Little more to go.

Rust busting! at it's best.

Nasty rusting. But, we bust!.

Patching, This went on for 3 years!.

New wheel bearings, front and later on, the rear.

Original brake fluid, Crystalized.

Going to a car show that day.

Burke car show, 2016.

Cape May. Bystander takes a picture.

Wildwood convention center circle car show.

Holloween 2016 walk through.

headlight switch replacement.

Cleaning up for restoring inside parts.

The door panels came up nice too!.

The inside door panels. Nice yo!.

Bumping some stainless trim.

Buffing the aluminum rear trim.

Masking with flat black.

Removing masking after the paint job.

The new cover. Made from Bulletin board vinyl.

New voltage regulator. Finding one was 1/2 the fight.

Painting the outside body of the 62.

Painting, don't forget under the rockers.

Center beam rust replacement.

Fender: Just removed from the car.

Fender: Just removed from the car.

Fender: Removed the rust.

Fender: Removed the rust.

Fender: Removed the rust.

Fender: Removed the rust.

Fender: Removed the rust.

Fender: Removed the rust.

Fender: Removed the rust.

Welding in new metal.

The restoration picture book.

Changing working position.

Block it for front wheel work.

Painting the edges. Edges first, dry, paint again.

Prepping the roof.

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02-23-12
  Today after I did a small Camera job I cleaned the engine and the compartment. Several times... Oh, did I say several times... My fingers hurt. In the last entry to this log book I used Gunk. I diden't use Gunk this time. Gunk stinks, in the nose area and is expensive, and there must be somthing out there almost better, if not better and cheaper. There is.

  It's called "LA's Totally Awesome". All purpose cleaner. Lists engines and other many surfaces for the car and home. I suppose since the grime has started 50 years ago, and several applications removed just about all of it. It's good stuff. I will not try to start the car yet until I am ready to do the engine work I have planned. Probally Sunday.

  "Totally Awesome" is found at General Dollar at around 4.00 a bottle. I used three scrubbing brushes. 1-Tooth, 1-toilet, 1-dish washing brush. All purchased at General Dollar. It does a good job but you have to work.. You know, Mom used to call it "Elbow Grease". Not only did I clean the engine, I cleaned the steering box (remember it had 1/4 inch of grit). I did the fire wall, cross mounts, and sides. I purchased two containers, but I still have about a 1/4 left in the one container, and diden't use the second one yet.

  Mac's shipment arrived today. All items look good. So, now, all I need to get is the radiator. The place in North Wildwood says they were busy today. Hopefully, they will find one before Sunday. If so, and Sunday is a nice day. We start that work. I just have to pick up three more freeze plugs at Advanced tomorrow. Here's a few pictures of the engine cleaned. Suprised the Ford Blue paint is even still on it as much as it is.


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Comment:
  Looks a lot better. This side had the most oil and dirt because the valve cover was leaking. They used form a gasket instead of ordering the right rubber gasket it seems.

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Comment:
  The other side.. Wasen't as bad as the other side. This is where the freeze plugs need to be replased.

Look at the starter relay... It's brown!. That's the original color they were I think. In the other pictures, it shows black.


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Comment:
  Showing the steering box and the fire wall. Much better. Still can use some more scrubbing, but much, much better.

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Comment:
  "Totally Awesome". Cleaner from General Dollar.... I don't think I have ever seen this advertised on TV.

  That's it for now. If you deside to use the Totally Awesome cleaner. I used a small bucket, and put about a 1/4 inch of awesome in, and filled the bucket about 3/4 of the way. You will have to find your own strength. But, so far, it seems to be a good choice. Use of this stuff on your own car is totally up to you.

  I do plan to paint the engine when painting the complete underside has started. Still, a long way to go before we paint anything on the car. I'm still going to see if I can borrow a power washer when I start the cleaning on the underside.


02-24-12
  Picked up some parts today at Advanced. The rest of the freeze plugs, gal of anti freeze, and A wireing terminal kit. I know I'm going to need it if not now, eventually with the rusted terminals on the wireing, espically the voltage regulator and most likely the headlights and high beam switch. I think that is where the problem is with the headlights. I'll find out.

  Diden't do anything to the car today. Was working all day. Looking at the weather, Sunday looks like it's going to be a nice day, sunny, and around 50. Soo, if I get the radiator before Sunday, it's a go. If not, I just may tackle the headlights. If it was spring, it woulden't matter, but I don't want the wash water freezing in the middle of the job if I have to leave it sit for a day or two.


02-25-12
  Did nothing to the car today except start it and let it run for a while. All okay. Will need to continue cleaning the sides of the engine compartment. Still some dirt where I diden't clean good enough. But, where I did clean, nice!

  The garage in NW, has a radiator but the bottom hose connection is on the wrong side. So, we will leave the old one in and do a drain and clean out. I'll order one from NAPA later on in the future... I found the engines numbers. They are located under the exaust manifold. I was able to decode the first set, The second set is the part number, The -E is the revision. There is no web site to find out what the revisions were.


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Comment:
  The first set. C6DE Are as follows.
  • C= Decade 1960's (50's would be B)
  • 6= 66 (1966)
  • D= Falcon-Maverick (Automobile group)
  • E= Engine Group.
  • 6015= Part Number
  • -B= Revision (what ever the revision was)

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Comment:
  These are Ford's Engineering revisions. No one knows what they stand for. If you do, I would like to know.

  So, the engine is from a Falcon or Maverick. Probally a Falcon. Mavericks were a smaller car. The engine was made in 1966, Probally from a 1966 Falcon. So, all of that seems to figure correct. Even figureing the engine is a 200 instead of a 170. So, the engine dosen't match the vin except for the cylinder count.

  I also found out through a message board that:
Red Valve Covers = 170
Green valve Covers= 144
Blue Valve Covers= 200
The 170= 3 Freeze Plugs
The 200= 5 Freeze Plugs

  Since the indications all point to a 200, including the casting number, and giving the year account of the engine. I am convinced it's a 200. Now, I don't know if it's a 4 or 7 main bearings. I am of the opinion it's a seven, since it's running in this day and age even with a bad cylinder.

  If the weather is nice tomorrow I'll do the radiator flush, water pump, rad hoses, and if time allows I'll remove the valve cover and seeabout tapping on the #3 cylinder valve springs. Maybe that will bring back #3, maybe not. Here's a web site for decoding Ford parts, not only the engine but other parts also. Ford Decodeing opens in a new window.

  It was nasty windy, cold, and otherwise a blustery day. I now know how Winnie The Poo felt. Hopefully, tomorrow will be a nice day, and the temp will be higher too.. Till next time.. See ya!.


02-26-12
  Today it was too cold to be working with water. So, I did two small jobs on the car today. I removed the valve cover again and tapped on the #3 cylinder valves... No change. Unless the cylinder comes back between now and when I pull the head, it's pull the head. Spring time for that. But, there is more to do under the hood.

  I removed the fuel line to the carb from the pump. Straightened it out, and routed it better along the engine. Looks like it should. Had to cut a few inches off the end to meet up with the filter on the carb. I also, sodered the transmission dip stick so the stick woulden't fall down in the tube. This was a wrong fluid level reading, as the end cup let the stick fall farther into the tube. Now, it should be right when checking the trans fluid level. Diden't need to do that on the oil stick.

  That's it for today. maybe Thursday will be a nice day for the water department job. Dosen't look like it at this time. But, we still have a while to go before Thursday.


02-27-12
  Okay, so now it's confirmed:. The head gasket needs to be replaced... Not only does the gasket need replacing, but I also need to check the head for warpage. I need to purchase a straight edge, and a tork wrench. If the car severly overheated at some point in it's life, the head could have warped, causing the gasket to "blow" through If this is the case, the head needs to go to a machine shop for "shaving". If that is true, I should also have the head overhauled. New valves, and a lot of new head parts.

  If it's not warped, I can just clean the valves, rockers, and the whole head up. Scrape off the old gasket, and put a new one on. My Shop manual hasen't arrived yet. I am going to contact him. It should have arrived last week. I allowed three days more than the quoted arrival date. I will also need to buy a quart of parts cleaner, and a brush, that goes on to a air hose and clean the head with that. I hope it's not warped. To get the head rebuilt, in a machine shop, will cost around 300.00.

  The picture below is where the one leak is comming from, just below the #3 cylinder. Cleaning off all the dirt and oil revealed where the #3 problem lies. So, there fore before I continue with the water pump and all, this has to be corrected next. So, I should get ready and Oil up the exaust manifold bolts with pentraiting oil, because if there are going to be problems, with bolts breaking, it will be there. I'll spray those areas for a few days before I take off all the ajoining parts to the head. I have never done this before, It's both exciting, and scary.


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Comment:
  This is where the leak is. I have no dobt about it. The leak is most likely inside too. This leak, is a oozing leak, on the outside, and most likely is in the inside too, causing almost no compression.

  If I have taken the picture about a 1/2 hour after, There will be a considerable amount of coolant along the head/block line. So, we are waiting for a nicer day to do this. Probally will be a couple of days with this repair. It's not a easy one, and is a major repair. Hopefully, the valves are in good shape... So, we wait until a nice whole day to start this.


02-29-12
  Getting ready to remove the head. Sprayed the parts to be removed with penatrating oil several times each day. Got together some materials for the job. Going to remove the rocker arms, valves, and clean up the head and all the parts, including the valves. My friend has a spring tool, so the valve springs are coming off, and then it's clean up the head, scrape the old gasket off and basicly clean everything, put back together, and crank it over.

  Purchased a older tourque rench, cleaning brushes, Blades for scraping off the old gasket. I have cleaner. Will need to stop into General Dollar and pick up some zip lock bags to keep the cylinder parts, so they go back on in the correct order. Tomorrow, if not raining or cold, I start this project.

  In the morning, I go over to see the transmission guy. Check into his wireless printer, and take pictures for his web site. I hope to get his web site finished by the end of the weekend and uploaded. He's going to have to get a domain pointing toward his space. That's it for now.


03-01-12
  Okay, the #3 exhaust valve IS burnt. We removed the head today, and discovered not only is the valve burnt but the head gasket was also bad, as it was seeping coolant. The valve exhaust valve is burnt in two areas, and therefore, did not have the seal needed for compression. That valve needs to be replaced. I will need to order one. I'll have to check into that. In the mean time, I will be cleaning up the head, scraping the old gasket, and soaking the spline before cleaning it. Cleaning the springs, rockers, head itself, polishing the valve seats. This needs to be done in order to have the engine run good.

  Here's a few pictures from todays adventures, and a video. Yea, got to have a video as this is a major repair.

You Tube Nav ID Head removal. Valve replacement.

Removing the head from the block. It does need a valve, and a major cleaning.

Head removal


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Comment:
  We just lifted out the head. Exaust manifold, crab and all in one. We removed the carb later to get to the valve springs.

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Comment:
  The rocker mech. This also has to be removed in order to remove the valves and springs. It also needs to soak in kerosene in order to clean and clear out the oil gunk. To open all the oiling ports within the unit.

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Comment:
  Three burn spots on the valve. This valve will need to be replaced. All seats will need to be polished.

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Comment:
  Here's what the motor looks like without the head. This also needs to be cleaned up, including the pistons, carbon, and all the old gasket rements removed.

  So, there you have it. The #3 mystery is solved, but there is a lot more to do before the engine is rinning right, and with all 6 cylinders in running condition. We have all agreed that this #3 problem was most likely there when the car was on the road in the early 80's. The carbon build up suggests that. It could have been that the carb wasen't properly mixture adjusted, since the #3 cylinder is directly behind the carb, therefore, number 3 had the most gas draw. A mis-mixture could kill the valves, and #3 is the first because it's directly behind the carb. Shorter length to the cylinder from the intake manifold.

  No one knows for sure about the cause, but, the evidance suggests that. So, for the next week or so, I will be cleaning the head up, and several hours will be compounding the valve seats... So, here we go with that. Stay tuned, more to come. Same bat time, same bat channel... LOL...


03-02-12
Went to work today. It's raining now... Looked up the cost for a exhust valve. 7.49... With my 10% discount, I ordered 6 new exhust valves. Yea, why not?. I still have to do the seating compound, and clean the head up. By the time they come in (several days) I'll be ready to do the compounding suction cup thingy to them. It'll be a little while before I input into this LogBook. I will be directing my energy and time toward getting this done in a timly manor, espically, while working a PT job. Although this job so far has been real clost to full time, just shy of a few hours. Next week I have three days off.. Hopefully, it's be nice sunny days... Till next time.


03-04-12
  Went to Shop Rite and purchased a catering aluminum pan. Pack of 5, although I don't need five... Filled up a gallon container with Kero. Came home and set up for starting clean up of the head parts. Pored out the Kero into the pan, saving some for the head. Two wire brushes, 1-steel 1-brass. Two new single edge razor blades.

  When we took the parts off the head, we used sandwich bags for pitting them in. Labeling the bag. We started at the front, naming the valve #1 then worked our way to the back to #12. I marked new bags, and made paper lables for inside the bag. It's easier to see the correct number valve and parts.

  Cleaned up the lifter assembly first. Then moved on to the valves and corrusponding parts for the valve, number after number. They are all done. The bolts for the head are also done. It was a bit nippy today, and desided to call it quits because the wind started to pick up and it seems to be getting colder out there. So, we wait until the next time. I am hoping for Thursday to re-install and start her up. But, we will see... The new exhaust valves are supposed to be here this week. Hopefully, before Thursday.

  On the intake valves, under the top of the valve, the build up of carbon was a lot. I had to scrape, scrub, scrape, scrub, in order to get all of the baked on carbon off. Took me some extra time just for the intake valves. One of the guyes that has a shop said he will seat (stone) the valves for me. He thinks it's cool, a guy my age, whom never did this stuff, has a interest, and made the invitation to watch as he faces the valves. I have my camera, and post it here.

  Came home yesterday from work about 3:30, so I desided to continue on the engine block. I removed all 5 of the freeze plugs, and installed new one's... I also replaced the water pump. Purchased a new fan belt, and a new heater outlet pipe. I will install the pipe after the head is on because it sticks up a bit and might get damaged re-installing the head... After all the freeze plugs were out I ran the garden hose into the block and cleaned it out of the 50 year old dirt and grime. The water was pitch black comming out of the freeze plug holes. And, black for a while while cleaning the block out. Then, I installed new plugs. After removing the old water pump I cleaned all around the water pump area. Thats it for now... Stay tuned for more.....

You Tube Nav ID removing the 40+ years old freeze plugs. Installing new freeze plugs. removing, was not as easy as it seems. This video is the complete process in fast motion.

removing the 40+ years old freeze plugs. Installing new freeze plugs. (Opens in new window)

New fuel pump

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© 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
You need permission to use or distribute any information on this web site.

Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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