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Working on brake lines.

New shoes, springs, and cylinders too!.

New, new new...

The nut and bolt wall of painting.

New again, as it was in 1962.

Painted. Complete.

primer on the rear and roof.

Roofing. Sand, primer.

The cowl, sand, primer and paint.

The sticker from PA.

Cleaning for painting.

Body work on the rockers.

Painting the dash also.

Primer, edging, and the doors.

Primer on the doors, and edging.

Some paint around the edging, and other difficult places.

Buffing the stainless trim.

Bumping out the dents.

Making the dash trim templet for the holes.

making the dash trim holes.

painting the dash.

Buffing the rear trim.

Sanding for another coat.

Masking for floor painting.

The couch for the material.

remove, and replace.

Homemade buffer machine.

driving past a speed trap.

repaired mud deviders.

Wildwood summer drive.

Welding in new pocket-well metal.

paint the underside.

Rear suspension back on.

Protect the sun from my head.

Nasty rusting.

A seat screw from 1962.

Painting the front wall.

The front wheel well, is done.

The other done wheel well.

Front wall is also done.

Rusted mud deviders.

Painting additional items.

Lot's to restore here.

CornerFlowerPower
FlowerPowerShort01
May need to also see previous page.
03-07-12
  Got out of work today at 1. Did some running around. After that I got the gas can and filled up the lawn mover gas can for cleaning the head. Got the head all cleaned up and ready for seating the valves. But first, Scott is going to face the valves for me. before I compound them into the head I need to clean up the block top. I will start that tomorrow after I get back from Scott's and do a small camera adjustment for a customer.

  While cleaning up the head today, I discovered a few things about the head, as it was. Two of the water ports was clogged. I don't have pictures as I was using gasoline, and what I was doing was so messy, I diden't want to mess up my 500.00 camera. My daughter, was busy doing something else, so I diden't have a camera person this time.

  The head was so covered in carbon, baked on like glue to paper. Thick too. I had to use a screw driver, and a blade, and gasoline to get it all off. I used gasoline, scrubed, scrubbed, several times. Several times, several times. My fingers hurt. Cleaning espically around the exhust valve ports. I also discovered two of the water ports was just about clogged. Again, using my screw driver to open the ports again. I used a wire brush on the open areas, and a tooth brush for the smaller areas and inside the valve ports, around the valve port openings. Removing all of the built up 50 year old carbon, dirt, grime, and all the other nastyness that has to come out.

  I will also change the one freeze plug too. I will change that tomorrow. I'll pick one up after Scott's tomorrow. With the head off the motor, should be easier. Better change this one even though it's not as bad as the one's on the block. But, it's in the rear of the engine, so I should change it while the head is out of the car.

  That's about it for now... See ya next time.


03-08-12
  There is a lot to report today. After breakfast, I took the intake valves over to Scott from S&E Auto Repair, to get the intake valves re faced. Scott, is very knowledgeable, and very helpful. He explained the complete process, even the compounding, and how the valve face should look when complete.

  The video below is one valve. All the other valves was done this same way. This is not usually done to todays cars, as replacing the motor is usually the cheaper option. But, since my motor is not in production, plus the motor is close to the original, this is a better thing to do than just doing the compounding. So, in fact, all the valves are in like new condition. The exhaust valves are new, but still had to be compounded, "seated", all 12 of them. They are done, and the head is ready to install the valves, and the parts, and placed back in the car.

You Tube Nav ID Scott, from S&E Auto. Re-faced the intake valves.


Re facing the intake valves.

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Re facing the valves

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Comment:
  Re facing the intake valves. All of them. New looking, and they are now seated and ready to be installed.

  This next video is "Compounding" the valve into the head valve slot. This will make the seal wider, so the valve will work better, making a better seal. All 12 of the valves has to go through this process. The seal area, after compounding, is gray in color, and you can see this quite easy. Watching this video, along with Scott's re facing video above, you will know (if you don't allready) how much work this is. It took me a good part of the day just to lapp the valves. If your planning to do a "valve Job" on your car, this section is worth watching.

You Tube Nav ID Re seating (Lapping) the valves. Showing one.


Re seating (Lapping) the valves. Showing one.

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Compounding valves

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  Pic #1. Compounding the valves. A process that matches the valve with the valve seat on the head. This process makes a better seal.

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  Pic #2. Compounding the valves. A process that matches the valve with the valve seat on the head. This process makes a better seal.

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  The block is ready for the re built head. As clean as it can be.

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  The head is ready for the lapped valves, springs, and all the fixins. As clean as it can be.

  Notice I also replaced the freeze out plug. This is the rear of the engine. Best to replace now while it's off the motor.


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  After the block is ready, and also the head. Cover both. I used a bathroom towel over the block. It's under the hood and won't get wet. Rain, or morning dew. Regardless of inside or out, cover it anyway. Same goes for the head. For me, over the head, I used two trash bags covering the head, and a blanket to keep the bag on. remember, Clean, Clean, Clean before installing...

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Comment:
  The bottom of the head. Where the valves will be. Clean, Clean, Clean. The round shinney areas are the valve seats. Now, after compounding the valves are custom fit for a leak free seal.

  All of the 12 valves are now seated and are ready to be installed in the head along with all the other head parts. The block, in the car is also ready for the head to be re installed. Then it's connect everything else, and start her up.

  There is one concern, we all have working on this car. That is the piston rings. We don't know how many miles are on the motor. If there is a lot, lot. Then, the increased compression, because it will be to factory specs, might weaken the piston rings, or blow them. That means, the motor will have blow by, causing the gas to mix with the oil. It will also decrease compression. But, the motor dosen't smoke, and it's not a every day driver. If the rings will go, they will go within about 6 months.

  The other good thing about the rings is, the walls of the cylinders look in good shape. No rough lines, or scrapes. That is a good sign. If there were, then that would indicate weak rings. So, I think we may be good on that. So what would need to be done if the rings did go?. Remove the engine, and take it apart, including the head and pull the pistons, cam shaft, and all and install new rings on the pistons. A real, real major job.

  Thats it for today, as you can see it was a busy day. We are hoping to have her running again, this time, perfectly, on Saturday or unday depending on the weather. Stay tuned for further LogBook entries.


03-10-12
  The temp today was 45-51. Too cold to be working on the car today... Tomorrow, it's supposed to be higher, but, in the mornings the other guys have some family things going on. They said they might stop over in the afternoon. Maybe after I get all of my other running around done, I'll start to put the rad hoses, and fan on. Maybe by that time Vic will stop over.

  Vic wants to remove the ends of the rocker arm assembly to have a look through the center pipe and make sure there are no oil deposits. He wants to clean it out anyway. I agree. If there are oil deposits in there and the doposits get into the oil plumbing it could clog the oil pipes and give the motor a failure. So, thats in hopes for tomorrow. If not, It's wait until Thursday. We'll see how tomorrow goes. Chow!.


03-11-12
  Today I flushed out the radiator. The black water poored from the bottom hose hole. Had to run the water a few times, and I used a garden hose trigger nozzle to shoot the water out. Did that also on the bottom, and the top and the cap hole. Took a little while, but all cleaned out and flowing good.

  Put back the rad fan, and tryed to get a new fan belt. I went back to Advanced several times, but it's still too small. Tomorrow I'll see if I can get a longer one. The generator top holder hits the gen's fan part indicating the belt is too small. I'll return the new one and get the next size longer.

  Me an Vic installed the new and re faced valves on the head. We are looking at Thursday to put the head back on, connect everything up and hopefully, start her up. Thursday, if the weather allows. We are also thinking on Wednesday after 3Pm but, Thursday looks to be a better time and day for us.

  Below are the pictures of todays work.


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  All the valves, springs, locks, and new oil seals installed in the old motor head.

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  All the valves, springs, locks, and new oil seals installed in the old motor head.

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  All the valves, springs, locks, and new oil seals installed in the old motor head.

  That's it for today. It's getting a bit nippy out, and we been at it for around 3.5 hours. So, it's time to call it quits for the night. Until next time. See ya later.


03-13-12
  Finally, found a fan belt that fits. It's Dayco "Top Cog" #15360. It figures it's a expensive belt. Coulden't be one of the 7.95 job's. It seems the story about finding a fan belt that fits seems to be this: Since the motor is from a 66 Falcon, and in 66 there were altinators. Alt's usually requirered a smaller pully, therefore requireing a smaller fan belt. The guys whom put in the motor diden't convert over to a altinator. They kept the same generator it seems.

  Generators, have larger pulleys, therefore the needed belt had to be between the 66 Falcon, and the 62 Fairlane, so finding a decent fit between the two was the issue. I tested 5 belts. There is only a small amount of "play room" on the generator mount, about 3/4 of an inch. Even with the belt I found, the top gen holder is almost maxed. With about a 1/4 inch to play with before the generator hits the stop. This could be an issue after the new belt wears in the pulleys. Time will tell. I'll have to keep the old belt with the car, or until I find a belt with a better fit. That will be something to locate after it's done. You always have those extras to do.

  Looks good so far for Thursday... Stay tuned. I plan to have videos and pictures.


03-14-12
  I fixed the headlights. The problem was within the high/low beam foot switch. I removed the foot switch connector and measured the voltage from the center pin (12 volt feed). The outer pins, no voltage. The switch houseing is made of pot metal. There are three inverted tabs that held the switch terminals on plastic. I bent them back using a small screwdriver and a tapping hammer. Pulled out the contact board, cleaned them up by using carb cleaner, scratching the contacts. Re assembeled. Tested okay. I also used a little no-ox on the contacts. That will help it stay a good contact.


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  Low beams working. Yes, there are no running lights. Thats right because the headlights are on. They are supposed to work that way.

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  High Beams working. Yes, all 4 are supposed to be on when in high beam mode.


03-17-12
  The re built head is on, and the motor is running like new. At least, so far... I have to clean the motor and inside the motor compartment again. We left the valve cover off to make sure all lifters is getting oil. We really cleaned, sprayed, and used compressed air to clean out the valve lifters. There were a couple lifters that had a oil hole blockage. Now, they are all getting oil, and I must say, very good, and good oil pressure.

I have at least 7 hours of video footage I have to go over and edit. The video of this process is in 5 parts. Using fast and regular motion. In the video, are more detailed explinations, as to what is going on, and such. This head project was about 2 weeks long, Had to work on it when the other two guys were available and I wasen't working at my regular job.

  if you are thinking about doing a valve job, and never did one before, play close attention to the entries and videos here. This process I knew nothing about 2 weeks ago. I have videos of the process for those of you whom want to know. Vic and Skippy, really knows there stuff. They were so kind as to instruct me, and help all the way through the process. They too were all smiles when it was running. Skip said. "I haven't done one of these in many years". They both enjoyed every part. They did say. "It's a shame they don't build em like this any more".

  Okay, now, let's get to the videos. Each video is about 10-15 minutes, They are on You Tube, and each link, in order is available here below.

You Tube Nav ID Re installing the re built head in the 1962 Ford Fairlane. Part 1.

Re installing the re built head in the
1962 Ford Fairlane. Part 1

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Body prep 03.

You Tube Nav ID Re installing the re built head in the 1962 Ford Fairlane. Part 2.

Re installing the re built head in the
1962 Ford Fairlane. Part 2

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Valve Job Part Two

You Tube Nav ID Re installing the re built head in the 1962 Ford Fairlane. Part 3.

Re installing the re built head in the
1962 Ford Fairlane. Part 3

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Valve Job Part Three

You Tube Nav ID Re installing the re built head in the 1962 Ford Fairlane. Part 4.

Re installing the re built head in the
1962 Ford Fairlane. Part 4

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Valve Job Part Four

You Tube Nav ID Re installing the re built head in the 1962 Ford Fairlane. Part 5.

Re installing the re built head in the
1962 Ford Fairlane. Part 5

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Valve Job Part Four

  Lot of information on this subject. Take your time in watching the valve job series. If your new to this, as I was the information and help Skippy and Vic shared was a valuable thing to know. This information can be applied to todays cars and trucks.

  While I was uploading the above videos, I cleaned the engine and compartment again. Got all of the oil off that was from us re installing the head. It's all clean again, even better than before. I also sprayed the front suspension, as there was dried mud caked on from many years ago. This must come off, espically for painting. I will be spraying them down many time throughout the months in preporation for painting. I think I may even ask around to see if anyone will let me borrow a power washer and also do the fire wall again.

  It seems the valve job is a success. The car drives, and runs like it was new. Still a few adjustments, but I will do them as time goes by. You can tell in the videos how much better it sounds, drives, and overall. I am happy with the valve job.

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© 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
You need permission to use or distribute any information on this web site.

Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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