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Working on brake lines.

New shoes, springs, and cylinders too!.

New, new new...

The nut and bolt wall of painting.

New again, as it was in 1962.

Painted. Complete.

primer on the rear and roof.

Roofing. Sand, primer.

The cowl, sand, primer and paint.

The sticker from PA.

Cleaning for painting.

Body work on the rockers.

Painting the dash also.

Primer, edging, and the doors.

Primer on the doors, and edging.

Some paint around the edging, and other difficult places.

Buffing the stainless trim.

Bumping out the dents.

Making the dash trim templet for the holes.

making the dash trim holes.

painting the dash.

Buffing the rear trim.

Sanding for another coat.

Masking for floor painting.

The couch for the material.

remove, and replace.

Homemade buffer machine.

driving past a speed trap.

repaired mud deviders.

Wildwood summer drive.

Welding in new pocket-well metal.

paint the underside.

Rear suspension back on.

Protect the sun from my head.

Nasty rusting.

A seat screw from 1962.

Painting the front wall.

The front wheel well, is done.

The other done wheel well.

Front wall is also done.

Rusted mud deviders.

Painting additional items.

Lot's to restore here.

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04-28-12
  Well now, It was bound to happen.... The radiator is leaking at the bottom, where the corrosion is, all along the bottom. So, it's time to save for a radiator. It is possible that the heater core also leaks, not sure yet, as I can not see any drips or very wetness. I do feel dampness on the old carpet, could be from the dampness in the air, but I will investigate farther on the heater core as time goes by. But, for sure I need a radiator... Maybe I'll do the metal work on the front fire wall when I get a new radiator so I'm not changing hoses twice...

  I suppose, since it's it's cooler out, and not nice to lay on the ground working on the car. I'll locate a set of key blanks. I only have one set of keys. That is also on the agenda. Measure the muffler, and see what size it is for replacement. Was thinking of removing the muffler, and weld around the inlet nipple. That's where it's leaking from. The rest of the muffler looks good, and has no other holes.

  Cleaned up the inside today. removed the old tires from the back seat, and put away the 6th wheel for a later day. Cleaned out the paper containers from the materials I purchased for the motor. Put away all the rags and laying down blankets. Dampness.... That's it for today. Cover the car. Until the next time.... Happy Motoring!.


04-29-12
  Today, we replaced the muffler and repaired a rather large leak in the pipe. Naturally, the called for muffler is un-known, and I had to see whats available, and choose. I chosen a #18630 Walker. This model has the proper hanging bracket, and all the right in/out proportions except the length. So, I used two adaptors, that I really diden't want to do because of cost, plus there are three clamps. But all in all, it looks good, and all is in the right place. It also sounds low frequency, like a 8!.

  I also installed the right outlet pipe on the tail. That is, a down outlet... On another note that took longer to do was to fix a pipe break just above the axel. Under a mounting and hanging bracket. I could not find the perfect sleve adaptor, but the next larger worked. The car sounds nice and low frequency "mellow" sounding. I am pleased with the outcome, but not the price. Oh well...

  On another note about the radiator: I see where the leak is, just about in the center, and a few inches from the bottom. That means, the leak is in the core. Not good for fixing myself.. I may be able to soder that tube closed. But, the plans are to get a new radiator. I found one, at the other parts store but will take a few days to get here. Have to save my money a bit. More on that later.

Here's some pictures.

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Comment:
  The complete new muffler and piping. Had to drill another hole for the second 1/4-20 mounting screw on the muffler mounting bracket.

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  The three adaptor spacing... Works, but maybe in the future I'll take it to a muffler shop and have new custom piping done. For now, were good.

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  The problem area. Found a cupling that fit.

  Thats it for now. I will be working for the next 5 days at my regular job, and I have a security camera connect up on Wednesday after my regular job. Most likely the weekend to work on the car. depending on if I get the rad or I remove the fenders. Don't know yet.


05-04-12
  It's been a while. Working 5 days a week now. Seems the only time I have to work on the car is the weekends until day light gets longer into around 9PM. And the few hours I have when I get home. Allright, here's what's going on. I found a radiator and at all places from Advanced Auto parts. I ordered a 1965 Falcon, 3.3L, 200 motor. This radiator is the same except the mounting side flanges are about a inch and a half short.

  I will need to cut and make two side sister flanges, to extend the flanges for mounting. I don't think that will pose a problem. I plan to work on that tomorrow (saturday) after I do a small camera job... The question is, finding the right thickness metal to make the flanges. I'll have to check the scrap metal area to see what's available. I am sure I have something I can use, and it will work good.

  I will also be ordering a new gas tank. 274.00. as oposed to 300.00+ in other places. I found one, and it's kinda reasonable on price. I'll also have to order a new sender gasket. Just a couple of bucks for that. However, installing it won't take place until I get the rear quarters done. Speaking of rear quarters, I found them. And, they are for a 62 4 door... So, ordering them in a few weeks. 88.00 plus shipping. More on that when the time comes.


05-05-12
  It was cloudy, but, no rain today. I was able to get the camera job done, and make the extended radiator flanges, and install the new radiator and, flush the motor water all today. 5 hours at it. It took a while to flush the motor, with the new radiator. This way, I was sure to get all the old water out, along with the brown color I think was from the original radiator. Now, there is water in the system. I will run the car a little bit, and in a couple of weeks, flush it again, and put anti freeze in.

  I'll be helping Vic with his car tomorrow. Will be removing the front fenders during the week if the time and weather allows. If not this week, The weekend... Now the real fun starts!. The body... When I finish the rear, that's when the new gas tank will go in. But until that time, it's prep the new gas tank. Paint it black, and order a new sender gasket. Now, it's on to the shock towers.

  Here's a couple of pictures of what modifications I had to do to get the new radiator in. The differance in radiators are:


  Sooo, all I had to do was to make extender flanges, and center, plus taking in account the fan span, adjust up-down, right-left of the radiator taking into account the width of the extender flanges... So, measuring, cutting, and sliding to find the right center, as the old one was. Plus, the skew from the fan, in-out. That is impostant as to keep the air flow the same as original to keep the motor cool.

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Comment:
  The extended flanges. This radiator was made for a 1965 Ford Falcon with the same size motor. (200ci).

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  The new radiator fits like a glove. Sturdy. I will paint once I get to that part. I may put a coat of paint on just to retard the surface rust on the cut flanges.


05-06-12
  Today, I drove the 62 around town... All day. Went over to Vic's to help him with his motor swap project. Driving the 62 today was nice. Got a lot of looks and comments. Also found out I need to replace the heater core also. But, I knew that back in my mind. I can use a 65 Galexy core, it's the same size except it's 1/2 inch thinner. I can shim around it. Advanced has them for 26.00... Will order one today, even though I haven't pulled the old one yet. Internet, and the shop manual indicates it's the right look, except it's 1/2 inch thinner.

  I am glad I flushed the rad system. Now I know, as I suspected, the heater core is leaking. Not bad, but still, leaking... Glad I used water and not anti freeze. Will replace the water with anti freeze once the new heater core is in. Should heat a lot better too.

  I was also thinking on ordering the rear bearings and seals. I should do tham as suggested by Vic. He knows his stuff, and I think I will check into them tomorrow as I order the heater core.

  Heater core is next, shock towers-body still in waiting. Maybe the rear bearings and seals... Thats it for this weekend. Working all week. Mught be able to do the heater core in the middle of the week. Seems the heater core is accessible from under the hood. Acording to the shop manual. Open door, open plastic locks, slide out, slide new in, repeat process... yea, we'll see more on that later.... See ya next time!.


05-08-12
  Today, after I got home from work, I started to see about removing the heater assembly and the heater core. It wasen't that bad, but, I have to remove the glove box lining as not to damage it re installing the heater, and be able to duct tape the inlet.. Now, removing the core form the heater wasen't bad either. There are 4 screws on the fire wall, removing these screws the heater comes out. You will also need to remove the control cables and the large blower connector. After replacing the core, put the cover back on, and re install it. Connect the hoses, and your set. Re fill the radiator and there should be no more age leaking problems with the total cooling/heating system.


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Comment:
  Showing the side facing the fire wall. Surface rust. I will clean before re-installing. Painting will come when the whole car get painted. yes, it will be removed as well as the insulation against the fire wall.

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  Showing the side facing the fire wall with the core (The leaking component). The core.

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  The heater as it come out of the car.

  One of the factors the heater core went bad, and the radiator even though the car sat for 33 years with the rad drained, was there was no anti freeze in the system. Air and moisture eat away at the core, year after year. Anti freeze, has non corrosion agents in it, and if the coolant was in there, just as they put the car into the garage it probally would still be good.

  Even 33 years ago, the anti freeze back then had lubing agents in it to help stop corrosion against the heater core and the radiator. Well, The heater core hasen't arrived yet, and hopefully, tomorrow it will. But I still have to locate some insulation against the fire wall. It is soaked, and black, and from being wet even back then, as I think the heater leaked, the installation is deteriated. As you move it around there are particales from it air borne.

  The installation is dry rotted, wet and damp. It needs to come out to be replaced, and, the inside fire wall needs to be cleaned, sanded, and painted. I will do that before the heater goes back in. I will also do that to the heater houseing. When both are dry it will go back in. If not, I will do the painting when I paint the whole car. Not sure yet. But it will make painting the whole car a bit easier.

  Thats it for now, until next time...

05-09-12
  Now, we have the heater re-installed with a new heater core. The new heater core came with spacing tape foam. They are used when using a smaller size heater core. I spaced them, and re-installed the heater. Works perfect, and the heat is great. No more fogging up the windshield, and will be a lot warmer too next winter.

  Ordered a new gas tank today. Pricy.... Whew!.. That took a lot of holding my breath. Had to save for that purchase. The new gas tank will be going in after the rear is done. For now, the old will do as it drips a few drops every few days or so. Make no mistake though it will get worse as time goes by, espically now with gas swishing around in there. More later on... Chow!


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Comment:
  The new heater core is 1/2 inch thinner than the original. All other dementions are the same. This is the Ready-Air 399021. Fits, with using the spacing tape. Make sure your core comes with spacing tape before you leave the store.


05-12-12
  Hi-ya everyone... Since the freeze plugs have been in, and since the heater core has been replaced, the coolent pressure is present, I have discovered MORE freeze plugs that need replacing. They are "weaping" coolant. Now, guess where they are?. Behind the exhaust manifold!.

  That means I have to remove the exhaust manifold.... Hmmm, yea. I drove the car practically all weekend, and during the week. That means the manifold (and bolts) had many times of expansion and contracting. Now, I will be hitting all the bolts with penetrating stuff. "DB Blaster". I will be doing that several times a day until around Saturday or Sunday. I will try to remove the manifold bolts, removing the manifold, and see what size the freeze plugs are. They are small one's. About the size of a nickle.

  So, that means, we don't start the body yet. I am planning on attending the Gentilini car show in Woodbine NJ, the way the car is. I have been encuraged by several friends to take the car there the way it is and have some fun with it the way it is. Should get all kinds of comments. I will also try to video, and pictures.

  before the show, I would like to get the freeze plugs changed. Once the manifold is off, It shoulden't take too long to replace them. I plan to use stanless steel bolts to replace the old manifold bolts. make it easier for next time. That's it for now. Till next time.


05-13-12
  This morning before I ran my errands, I Sprayed the exhaust manifold bolts with Blaster... Couple hours later, I sprayed again, couple hours later I sprayed again, and a few hours later I sprayed even again.... About a hour after that when I got home, I desided to see if any would budge. The first came out, second, and so on. Not too much trouble. NONE broke!...

  At that point I said self, "Let's go for it". I removed the pipe bolts, and droped the manifold. I started to remove those 4 little freezout plugs. The middle one gave me some trouble. But, They all came out. Again, I sanded around the hole, flushed, and I am now preped for the new.

  The old bolts looked a bit sad, so I drove to Home Depot to purchase some new bolts, and lock washers. I did. A little longer, but with two lock washers should be good. Tomorrow, after I get back from my appointments, I'll go over and get the freeze out plugs and put them in, and re install the manifold. Till next time...


05-14-12
  Today I found the right freeze plugs for up under the exhaust manifold. I taped them in. 2 of them are leaking, rather badly... okay, so here's the deal... The two front holes seemed to be missing peaices of the "curve" where the plug rests in place. The back two were better, as in condition. I seem to think rust has eaten away the curve for the plugs.

  I started the car, and let it run to heat up the motor thinking the plugs will expand and the leak will stop. It did. However, once the rad cap was on now the pressure builds... leak again. As the motor heated up more, the stream stopped. So, it was basicly, stop and start with the leaking. Maybe they will seal maybe they worn't... Thinking, won't, but let's be hopeful.

  So, if not, I have a plan... Cutting (like a washer) out of a peice of electrical plate, drilling a hole for a small self tapper screw. Fill the freeze plug with hi temp RTV, and drilling the self tapper into the center of the plug. Squeezing the plate in, and squeezing the RTV out the holes making a seal. let set for 24 hours and see what we get.

  I will have to remove the exhaust manifold again, and hopefully the gasket will still be good, as it is a new gasket... So, now, we wait and see what expansion, non-expansion does, and then on a better day, if expansion don't work, we remove the manifold and do the fix... The body is still in waiting, but I have the patching metal, and the welder on stand by. Until next time.....


05-17-12
  Seems there is a little delay... Advanced has Dorman freeze plugs. There are 4 listed for 1 inch. I can not find out what size MM that is supposed to be in there. So, I ordered the first size. Too small... The second size is on the way. Won't be here at the latest, Monday.
  The gas tank arrived yesterday. Looks exact like the original... That will be after I get the body work finished... Speaking of body work. I found a company that has lower 1/4's, and they are in stock. I purchased both sides should be here in the middle of the week. I have to make the rounded part (for behind the bumper) and the trunk, and the wheelwell walls in between... I have collected good metal for that, and there is more over at a friends house. For now, we wait for the plugs....


05-19-12
  The box of freeze out plugs came today. Glad I did get the box because I needed them. replacing these plugs on the car was a challange. The two fronts went in good, not too much trouble getting in there, but the 3rd from the front was a bugger.... Out of 10 plugs, there are two left. Yes, they all leaked, and finally, we figured out the problem. getting them straight in the first place.

  Because the head is slanted, you have to have the plug with the scoket slanted with the head so they go in straight. Difficult to do with the head on the car... if your doing this you have to:


  Then, you have access to the plugs. After old ones removed, clean, and use emmery cloth and make sure all of the old is out. There is NO ridge inside. So clean good... So, they are in and there are no leaks, and no oozing.. Should stay that way. Will check tomorrow. The radiator is full, ran the car around town, let cool. No leaking, topped radiator, ran the car again. parked for the night, tomorrow I will check again.


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Comment:
  I diden't remember to take pictures before I put the exhaust manifold back on. So, this is the best I can do with the camera under the manifold.

May need to also see previous page.

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© 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
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Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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