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Wildwood crusing night.

Night driving in the home town.

prepping the roof for painting.

Working on the trunk fin painting.

Primed and ready for paint.

Big differance from now and several years ago.

The engine and compartment, new paint.

More paint on the engine.

Lapping the valves.

More work on the gas tank.

The trunk, as it was first day I got it.

Engine work, I did some years ago.

Ready for the head.

New freeze plugs too.

Building the trunk car show rack.

More, car show trunk racking.

Mounting the new radiator.

Welded those too.

Wildwood cruseing night 2016

Bumpers back on the 62.

The stone catcher and then the bumper.

Than the bumper goes on.

The radio work now. Here's was the problem.

Re building the carb.

The floor was not that bad when I got her.

There. Now, all the dash lights work.

Welding the fenders, new metal.

Welding the fenders, new metal. Clamp, weld.

Welding the fenders, new metal. Both needed lot's of work and metal.

Welding the fenders, new metal. More welding.

Welding in new beam metal.

This also needed work.

New metal here also, both corners.

The 3rd engine will be going in.

Painting some engine parts. Kitchen table.

Paint the parts.

removing the rear for restoration work.

This picture was used in the Ford Muscle book.

Transmission rebuild 2016.

New tires, on the 13 inch rim.

Transmission rebuild. Trans working good.

yes, new tires on this side too.

Making the new exhaust pipe, front to muffler.

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Comment:
  The drivers fender removed. Not bad.. Not too bad a all. The number "232" I think is the production number from the Ford Factory. This car was made in Deerborn MI plant, and it was the 232 off the assembly line. I think.

  After completion of this side. The patches, and cracked undercoating will be removed. I will repair the undercoating, and clean up the rest, and paint the undercoating with rust-o- leum. I also need to replace the fender rubber strips. That all will come later on once all the patch work is rapped up.... Till next time... Chow!.


06-09-12
  Today, in the later afternoon, Vic came over to help with the removal of the passinger fender. Coulden't handle it myself because there were two screws that woulden't come out because the rust around the clip was through. The clip turned with the nut. So, we were able to remove the fender along with the top part of the body. Seperated them after getting them off in one peice. No bolts or clips were broke.

  We then removed some of the stanless trim, so they can be seperated safely, without damage to the trim or the metal. The passinger side of the cow area is still good, but there is a little more rust along the wheel well side and the bottom, still, not really bad, and this should patch up good too. I am pleased with the condition of the whole front end.

  I will be working on the rest, have to remove the shock tower covers. if under those look good, then it's start to cut away the rusted portions and start to do the sheet metal fabrication and welding. I should have pleanty of sheet metal, and I am ready to do the fabrication. Tomorrow, hopefully if it's not too hot, and I'm not draggin' I'll start to tackle the front end for that... So, here's some pictures of todays progress.


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Comment:
  removing the fender and the top sheet metal work in one removal. Bolts turning in their holes. Save em, and the clips.

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  The front of the car is off the car. Taking the assembly to the work spot in the street... LOL. yea, in the street.

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  Working on the assembly in the street.... Not really in the center of the street, but off to the side...

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  getting the two bolts off without damaging or cutting the bolt. Going to clean um up and use em again. Original.

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  The front of the car without the front body sheet metal on. Really nice condition for 50 years old.

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  Were working in the street.. Pleanty of room.... LOL.

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  Looking at the rust damage. Not too bad, not too bad at all.

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  here ya' go. Here's a better shot of the rust issues I have to patch. Not really that bad. Need no work to the cow!.

  Okay, so thats it for today... Tomorrow, we remove the rest of the front body metal, and start to see about fabrication patches. Cutting out the rusted areas, and grinding the rust areas, sanding, and patching, cleaning, and priming... Okay Folks! Here we go!. Hopefully, it won't be too hot.


06-10-12
  Today, was the first day in welding. I have a Flux welder. Not as good as a mig with argon, but, it has to do. I have to call tomorrow and find out what type of wire I should use in this machine that would work best for auto body. I think the wire in this machine now is too thin. Thicker wire would require more amps to melt the wire, and that would be good instead of burning through the thin auto body metal. For now, I repaired 1 shock mount support.

  Until I find out what is the best wire for this machine to use for body work, I will be waiting on that until i make a decision. The front of the car is ready. All of the parts I had to remove has been removed and we are ready to start the patch work. At this time, I am waiting until I find out the correct model number wire to use. So, for now thats it. See ya next time....


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  grinded out the rust. Found out it needed to be ground out a little more.

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  grounded out the patch hole a little bigger. Cut a peice of steel to fit. Welded, filled in around, grinded.

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  Used undercoat instead of paint. I will do the same to where it's undercoated from the factory. And paint where it's paint. The undercoat is like a rubber.

  This is the drivers side what I call the helper support. It make the top area a little more ridgit. So far, so good. But I will need to change some manners of welding besides the wire thats in the machine now. I will need to find better "yesterdays" steel. Todays steel is a composit of several materials, and dosen't like to be welded. I have some different steels, including a rusty top from a VW bus. So, once I find the right wire to use in the machine, and find some nice sizes steel to use, we will be on our way, and not so much time spent grinding, and experminting with the welder and steel.... Till next time all... Take care.


06-11-12
  Another stand still... Seems the wire welder (as I have some testing body metal from another car) Burns through. The steering, and amps are too high for this kind of metal. So, I won't be doing welding yet, as I have to find the right set up for me. I have sooomuch welding to do to this car, I can't be tapping, tapping, the welding torch and getting 1 foot of weld in 4 hours. Not practicle, but in the end I just might have to do it that way.

  There is still more experimatition to do, and testing.... I'll be back here and letting all know when I find what I'm looking for without selling the house to buy it with. Till next time....


06-14-12
  Today I tryed my hand at Flux welding. I have almost no experiance with this type of welder. I did practice for a few days with about two hours a day on body metal and thicker metal. So, I desided to give it a go to repair the shock tower covers. As time progressed, I got better at laying down beads. I finally got the hang of jumping from one spot to another in order to stop burn through. I have several years experiance with a arc (stick) welder, and with this type of welder, you don't continue the bead. You stop every inch (or less) or so to let the metal cool down and jump to another spot. When I do the body metal I have to learn to stop and jump. it's difficult to get used to, espically when you ran in line beads all the time.

  During the next few day I plan to get the two shock tower covers done. I have another place to do on the same cover, and then grind, and determin if more is needed (probally) and grind again... But, I only burnet through once, and as you can see by the other side of the cover I am getting better at the bead..


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  This patch is the better of the patches. It's also the last one for the day. Notice how better the beads are?. I'll get better..

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  Left side, an early attempt. I'll grind it, and most likely fix and re-do.. But before I continue, I should remove the rubber stop. Forgot that.

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Comment:
  This one looks like it was done in the middle of the job. But, still, grinding will be done.

  They will look good when I'm finished. I will also coat with undercoat. get em ready for installing when the time comes.


06-16-12
  Today was a nice day. The sun was out, no clouds and I have the Shock Tower Covers done. Took most of the day, not counting the few hours during the last two weeks working on them after work a few days... But, yes. I will need to drill new holes in the mounting area. I will drill those when I get ready to put them on. Use the car as a templet...

  Tomorrow, I have to go out for a while. When I get back, and there is time I will be starting on the car. First, will be the top of the shock towers. The covers were not that easy, and there was a lot of shaping, curves, involved with those. I have a feeling they are going to be the hardest of the front parts.

  I discovered the trick with this Flux welder. That is to get the tip as close to the work as possible. Use the surrounding metal as a rest, and point, and pull the trigger. All you need a short trigger, and a few seconds of weld. Move the torch to another area, and so on, returning back when the metal has cooled and hit it again.

  below, are the shock tower covers finished, with the undercoat. All I have to do is drill the holes where the metal was replaced. Easier to drill those when they go back in. Here's a few pictures.


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  The two shock tower covers. This side will be inside facing the shocks.

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  Outer side. All ready except for the new mounting holes where the metal was replaced.

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© 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
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Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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