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Wildwood crusing night.

Night driving in the home town.

prepping the roof for painting.

Working on the trunk fin painting.

Primed and ready for paint.

Big differance from now and several years ago.

The engine and compartment, new paint.

More paint on the engine.

Lapping the valves.

More work on the gas tank.

The trunk, as it was first day I got it.

Engine work, I did some years ago.

Ready for the head.

New freeze plugs too.

Building the trunk car show rack.

More, car show trunk racking.

Mounting the new radiator.

Welded those too.

Wildwood cruseing night 2016

Bumpers back on the 62.

The stone catcher and then the bumper.

Than the bumper goes on.

The radio work now. Here's was the problem.

Re building the carb.

The floor was not that bad when I got her.

There. Now, all the dash lights work.

Welding the fenders, new metal.

Welding the fenders, new metal. Clamp, weld.

Welding the fenders, new metal. Both needed lot's of work and metal.

Welding the fenders, new metal. More welding.

Welding in new beam metal.

This also needed work.

New metal here also, both corners.

The 3rd engine will be going in.

Painting some engine parts. Kitchen table.

Paint the parts.

removing the rear for restoration work.

This picture was used in the Ford Muscle book.

Transmission rebuild 2016.

New tires, on the 13 inch rim.

Transmission rebuild. Trans working good.

yes, new tires on this side too.

Making the new exhaust pipe, front to muffler.

May need to also see previous page.
  Tryed the second new voltage regulator. This time, the gen light went off but the voltage did not exceed 12.53 volts. Still, not good. I think it's time to try a new Mfg with this part. Either that, or clean up the old one. I can drill out the old rivits and put in new ones, paint the houseing. I'll see if I can do that next time if the next one don't work. If the relays can be removed in tact, I can take out the electrinics, and then I'll just have the houseing and may be able to clean it up, and get it like new. Somebody's get to make a Voltage Regulator that is reliable and not too expensive.

  Moved the car out, and my other vehicles too and cleaned up the parking area with a power washer. There was a lot of dirt, and stuff left on the ground from all the work at that same spot. Desided to clean up the whole front a bit. Keep the neighbors happy. I don't have a picture of the new position. Probally tomorrow. Won't work on the car for a few days. I'm working and Vic borrowed my compressor to paint a few things tomorrow, or the next day. I'll be working anyway.

  I just thought about the condensor, or cap that is attached to the old one.... Hmmm, Does that have something to do with the new one not working?. Nothing in the instructions for the new one about that. Okay, maybe it's not needed?. I'll see if i can contact the Mfg with that thought. Perhaps it's omitted?. maybe thats whats restricting the correct charging?. I think I would be afraid to try it without knowing the outcome. So, a email will be sent about that...... So, thats it for today. See ya!.

  Today I dug out my jack stands and put the rear up. Now the body is level, and I have room to work on the car both sides and somewhat under without much trouble. When I work on the passinger side, I can remove the wood fence and I will have much room to work without moving the car again. As for the 1/4 panels... At this point, after the center is finished I may start on the drivers side, as this is the worst of the rust. I still have some thinking to do on this "procedure". It's a bit complicated as for the dogleg and the new 1/4's along with the trunk metal meeting the 1/4s.

  After standing up the car, I had a good look under the rear bumper. It's not that bad. There are places on the main beam I need to look closer, but, it dosen't look like that part of the car will need intensive attention. So, The car will be on the stands for quite some time, hopefully, the temperature will be tolorated and low as the work continues on this old car.

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  The car's gonna be up on these stands for a while. Looks like working on the car won't be crampy. At least working on the sides and 1/4's.

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  Drive it on the ramps then jacked it, and put the stands under.

  As for the Voltage Regulator. The condenser that goes from the arm post to ground is for noise supression for the AM radio. I forgot all about those devices. So, the new voltage regulator is defective. The second one. One more time, and if that one dont work. I'll try a NAPA product. Till next time.

  After work today I desided to remove the gas pedal. have to, to work on the floor and get it ready. The gas pedal needed some work also. Rusted, and that is why it felt like the carb linkage was too tight. Now I know, it's the gas pedal hinge. As you can see by the picture, it's just like the hinge of a door, with a center pin. I removed the pin, wire wheeled it up, and oiled the parts and re assembled. The pedal moves freely, and it's ready to go back in. The oil will keep nice until I'm ready to paint.

  The rubber seems to have been molded on around the metal, yes friends, the inside is real steel. I pealed back the rubber to expose that part of the steel and hinge. I will put it back on when I'm ready to re install it. Here is a picture of today's progress. Not much today, as I did this after work........ NOTE: A new regulator from NAPA is on the way. Looks and installs the same as the BWD model. I guess, we'll see what happens. Won't be here until Monday afternoon. Till next time.

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  The cleaned up, and oiled gas pedal. The hinge has been freed of the binding.

  Today. Started on the Cow area. Prepaired the area for patching. Found the rust took out a little more then what was seen. But we figured that diden't we?. Now, it's grinded to the solid steel. Cleaned up, and ready for the patch work. I started on the top and did a few on the side. Here's what the area looked like before the grinding and cutting started.

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  This area is the front drivers area, just under the front of the fender. Where the fender folds into the rocker. After starting to grind, I found the grinder was going through this area like butter. Indicating thin rusty metal. It had to come out to get to the good solid metal.

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  The small beam, from the top of the picture to the bottom, is under the floor board. That had to be cut too. Some of the outer and inner rocker area has to be replaced with new metal.

  Now that all the bad metal is gone, I cleaned up under the floor board, rocker inside all the way to the back. Cleaned out the top where the large flat metal is. That "shelf" was piled with rusted peices, 50 year old dirt, dist, and even a old rounded shell of a large nut. My guess is it was there because a squirel put it there, way back and stayed there for years. No pictures, as I wasen't thinking about that part of it's possible history at that time. LOL.

  The following pictures. Cleaned up, grinded out the old, ready for the mew metal to go in.

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  Ready for the patches to the areas.

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  There was a lot of the floor board to remove. It is going to be easier to replace a larger peice because it will be a square peice to replace. I can make the 40 degree bend with my bending table. It'll be more welding and finish grinding but will be worth it instead of doing smaller peices and doing a fit and all. The rust did get that far into almost the center of the floor board. desided to remove it all to that point. Easier installation.

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  This part is going to be harder. This part must be good welding, for strength, and must look good as this will be on the outside. This is part of the cars frame. The car is a unibody car, and this area is critical. I will take my time with this area.

  The top part I completed today. Will continue tomorrow. If i don't finish tomorrow, I will need to spray some WD40 on the cuts to stop them from surface rust. But, I am hoping I can complete tomorrow. At least it's preped and ready for the new metal. That took a long time to complete.

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  Top part just about completed. primer is on, and after all is complete and the primer dries it's the seam sealer. I will use a putty knife this time and only get it where I want it. Saving sealer, and money.

  Thats it for today. All day grinding, and cutting. Started around 11AM, and finished up about 4PM. I was covered with grinds, dirt, and rust. Off work tomorrow, and I will be at it again if the weather is good..... Till next time.

  Did a little bit today. Was hot. I finished the front rocker outside. Diden't do the floor board, or the kick panel area yet. That will wait until next time. The front rocker area was difficult, espically to get the original contour of the outer part. The fender rests in like a groove so the fender is even with the doors, and the rest. I must say though, I did a nice job but did take a long time. Special attention to this area as it's part of the cars structure make up.

  Last night I was messing around with a old video making type of program. It's a small one. I use it for fast motion, and a couple of other things. Found out it has panning. That is, you can pan a picture. Follows the curser, or auto pans. Made a nice video using the pictures so far from this LogBook. I must say, a nice video. Here's a few pictures of todays work too.
You Tube Nav ID Pictural video of work to the 62 so far. from december 2011, to Tuesday, July 16, 2012

Pictural video of work to the 62 so far. from december 2011, to Tuesday, July 16, 2012

(Opens in new window)

Pictural Video Part One

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  The seal was put on today the areas I did a couple of days ago. Primer is dry. Seam seal is now on and that area is done.

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  The seal was put on today the areas I did a couple of days ago. Primer is dry. Seam seal is now on and that area is done.

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  The lower part of the rocker. It's done. Now it's on to the drivers floor board.

  Today was a busy day, just on the Drivers floor. Everything is welded in, including the pan small beam. I desided to use the idea of under rails. metal, welded on to the cars pan, then laying the new metal floor on that, then welding it all in. Worked out rather well. Looks good and is very secure and sturday.

  I removed the floor rust all the way to the undercoating. This car had undercoating on the inside floor also. I may do the same, although todays undercoat isen't as good or as solid as yesterdays. Not too sure on that yet. The primer is on, and tomorrow, after I do the center beam, on the rocker area. Hopefully, I will finish that tomorrow, I will put the sealer on the seams. be good for another 50 years.

  So, we are getting close to the middle of the car. Then it's on to the other side to the center. here's a few pictures of todays progress.

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  Had to set up my sun blocker roofing again. Not as hot as last week... Nice to work in the shade.

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  The permitter of the hole has been preped for the inserting metal. I did this instead of but welding. This area will not be seen and will be seam sealed completely. Have to get some new rubber gromits too.

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  metal is in, and preped for painting. Rust removed. I figure the reason why there is so much rust on the drivers is because of Pennsylvania snow on their shoes. They get a lot of snow up there. Probally why the 1/4's are bad too. They salt the roads heavy there.

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  Primer is on. ready for the seam sealer once the primer is dry. Thats tomorrow if the weather and my errands are done.

  Today was hot but not too too hot. I have the center support almost done. The underside is finished, All I have to do is weld in the top cover (floor). I even made the "crush mount" that is in between the floor and the support, inside the support. So, when tightening the seat bolts the floor dosen't bend into the support. It stays rigid.

  This was time consuming as the bends were intrucuit in the beam and the supporting metal. Took me about 5 hours from start to where I left off. Almost done.... The only thing left is to weld the rest of the floor, Clean up the surface rust in the floor back pan and prime. Then, when dry, Seam Sealer.

  I purchased a quart of brown primer (oil based) by Rust-O-leum. Going to use that from now on. Money saving, and because places I can't get with the grinder will help to stop the rust. I'll use my compressor spray gun. Better because I can spray into places I can't get with a can. More time because I have to clean the gun after every use. Here's some pictures of todays labor.

May need to also see previous page.

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© 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
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Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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