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Masking for painting the edging.

Masking for edging the cowl area.

Hood back on. It's that time.

Painting the jambs.

Painting the outside, first coat and edging.

Buffing up stainless trim..

Making some trim clips.

Making the side dash marks hole templet.

Painting the inside.

Re placement of the stands.

Radio repair.

The rear removed for restoration.

Making new leafs to install.

Painting the rear ax.

The 1962 fairlane was badly rusted.

The 1962 fairlane was badly rusted.

Seats needed a lot of work too.

I do own a sewing machine, 1932 Consew Singer.

Removing the old material around the old vinyl.

Sewing on new beads for the centers.

Now, sewing in the new centers.

Hog ring placement and install.

Installing the beading.

Installing the centers.

Very strong old sewing machine.

Patching the spring covers. RAW patching.

Starting the booth-garage.

Making progress on the booth-garage.

Made from wood and bulleting board vinyl.

The nut and bolt painted wall.

Parts painted.

Booth painting. Edging some parts.

Parts painting in the home made booth.

Painting a few parts. To be painted again.

The home made buffing machine. Made from a washing machine.

repairing the rear rail.

Bending sheet metal patch.

Patching the rear lobes.

hand made dog leg.

Finishing the patching welding in.

Plastic (Bondo) Smooth over the roughing.

Plastic (Bondo) Smooth over the roughing.

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05-11-14
  Glad you made it to this page. Page 49.... Whew! Page 49... Some parts we needed to re use. The wheel cylinder push rods links, and the spring that goes to both shoes. Other than that, all new. Cleaned up the parts to re use.

  The old hose connection give use some trouble. Diden't want to budge. Fire helped, for both sides. This is a good thing. We then started to install new shoes, and springs. next, we need to bleed the brakes. If all goes right, there will be no leaks and should have a good brake pedel. But, this day, This is what is done.

  See ya next time....

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  Clean up the 2 parts to re use. The wheel cylinder push rod links and the connecting spring.

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  We had to use fire to un freeze the hose connections to install new hoses.

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  The other side looks the same way. Nice. Now, it's bleed the lines.
You Tube Nav ID Front Wheels Brake Hoses 02 (Almost done front wheels)


Front wheel, break Hoses, breaks, 02

(Opens in new window)

Front Wheels break Hoses 01

05-13-14
  To date we have progressed a lot. 2.5 years has now passed since I have started this project. Not really a long time for this. Other people are still on their project from 10 and 6 years ago. I suppose thay don't have that much time. I don't have a lot of time either, but I do make time.

  This week, we are moving right allong. The front wheels, brakes, hoses, and all are done. I even purchased new dust covers for the drums. I even had a chance to get the mismatch rim changed. I have to touch up the edge of the rim as the tire machine scraped the paint. I knew that, but I did want a matching set, plus the spare, all matching rims. That is done.

  After I get the wheels back on, we will bring her down, and set up for starting the roof body work. This area scares me a little because of the headliner. I can't get the metal too hot as it will either start a fire on the headliner, or brown it to a crisp. I will have to keep an eye on my heat. More on that later, but, for now here is where we are. See ya next entry. Chow!

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  Before we start on the installation of the drums, we have to sand off the paint around where the shoes will grab. Leaving the paint will cause the shoes to cake, and will damage the shoes.

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  Now, we pack the bearings with bearing grease. Pack em good.

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  After we push on the drum, we need to install the outside bearing, washer, and nut and the castle nut cover. Cotter pin to finish the job.

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  Now, we bleed the air out. I made a aluminum foil re direction thing. Try to keep the brake fluid away from going on the back plate. removes paint. That we do not want to do.

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  Had a chance to get the rest of the wheels painted. I did get the one changed out. They are now a matching set.

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  Looking nice and purty. new dust cap too.....
You Tube Nav ID Front Wheels Brake Hoses 03 (Bearing, Hoses, Misc)


Front wheel, break Hoses, breaks, 03

(Opens in new window)

Front Wheels break Hoses 03

05-18-14
  Did a little bit to finally set the car back on all 4 wheels. Now, we are ready to move forward. However, for the next chapter, we have to keep a eye close on the weather and my days off. We need to sand some parts, and primiter paint some parts to go back on before painting. Also, the roof and the rest of the body sand and get ready for painting.

  Inside of the booth must get at least 80 some degrees. 100 is best, and it does get that hot in there with the sun. But, can't be too windy, can't rain. Ideal would be 100 degrees inside, no rain, and every day off from work for at least 4 days. Maybe.... We shall see.... Fopr now, here's what was done.


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  Clean up the grease ports, and get some new grease in and around all the steering, and suspension ball joints.

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  Clean around the ports. Yes, they were painted without scraping the old dirt. This is because that is what protected the metal from rusting. It stays...

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  Now, we bring all four wheels back on the ground.

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  Removing the blocks, and we bring her down to the ground. After all winter, and last summer... She sits nicely, even with the new rear spring leafs.

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  Sitting on all four.... Finally!...

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  The new painted wheels. Nice, and nice....

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  Almost time for painting.....

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  The other side too.... Yup! all four.....

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  The path is ready.... The horses and pallet are for wet sanding some parts. I'm ready, but that is another day...
You Tube Nav ID Prep For Painting 01 (Prepping for prep for painting) (Supplemental)


Prep For Painting 01

(Opens in new window)

Prep For Painting 01

05-26-14
  Last Sunday was a nice day, all day. I did not work on the car, but I did work on some parts from the car. Preperation for whole car painting. The parts that have been removed needed to be permeter painted before they go on for whole car painting. Parts should not be painted seperate from the car. Rather, the parts should be put back on and then sanded. Several time, and each time a finer grit. Ending up somewhere around the grit of 2000.

  This makes the surface so smooth. The paint should be like a mirror when done. This is also done by spraying the paint "wet", rather than "dry". As wet as possible without sagging or running. Dry, is when not applied wet, and it's blured, or semi shiney. For this case, we are doing around the edges where the paint can't go when the whole car is painted. We don't want to see the old color anywhere.

  Some parts will need to be shot again before they go on, and when the roof is done, these parts will go back on, and then the whole car get sanded for whole car painting. Of course, there will be many hours of masking, and when the car is in, the steering wheel must come off. Yes, the steering wheel will also get fixed and painted. Steering wheel has special handeling, including a epoxy clear coat.. But, that is another day. For now, here's what was done last Sunday.

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  Trouble in the booth. They must go, and soon!...

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© 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
You need permission to use or distribute any information on this web site.

Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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