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Working on brake lines.

New shoes, springs, and cylinders too!.

New, new new...

The nut and bolt wall of painting.

New again, as it was in 1962.

Painted. Complete.

primer on the rear and roof.

Roofing. Sand, primer.

The cowl, sand, primer and paint.

The sticker from PA.

Cleaning for painting.

Body work on the rockers.

Painting the dash also.

Primer, edging, and the doors.

Primer on the doors, and edging.

Some paint around the edging, and other difficult places.

Buffing the stainless trim.

Bumping out the dents.

Making the dash trim templet for the holes.

making the dash trim holes.

painting the dash.

Buffing the rear trim.

Sanding for another coat.

Masking for floor painting.

The couch for the material.

remove, and replace.

Homemade buffer machine.

driving past a speed trap.

repaired mud deviders.

Wildwood summer drive.

Welding in new pocket-well metal.

paint the underside.

Rear suspension back on.

Protect the sun from my head.

Nasty rusting.

A seat screw from 1962.

Painting the front wall.

The front wheel well, is done.

The other done wheel well.

Front wall is also done.

Rusted mud deviders.

Painting additional items.

Lot's to restore here.

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May need to also see previous page.
06-19-15

  After the masking removal, We continue with this car. This time, we do some imaging up of the dash and the top and bottoms of the doors. More sanding, and compounding but it's worth the work.

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Comment:
  After cleaning off the inside of the windshield, we sand. First with 1500. You can feel when it's smooth. Don't sand too long. You don't want to go through to the metal.

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Comment:
  Watch those creases and hills. They seem to have a habbit of really sanding down fast. Just a few times across. Thats it...

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Comment:
  The finished dash. After all is said and done. Just think of the reflections when the seats and all are back in. Here's the process.

  1. 1500 wet sandpaper (not too long don't go through to the bottom)
  2. 2000 wet sandpaper (not too long, see above)
  3. 3000 wet sandpaper (this is more like a sand sponge. Not too long, see above) Some people go as high as 5000. But, keep the process in steps.
  4. Rubbing Compound (Not too long see above)
  5. Remove rubbing compound (use a new cloth, or designate as removal)
  6. Wax (Use a new cloth, or designat as wax)
  7. Remove the wax (read wax instructions)

Remember, be careful not to go through. Only remove as much as is needed to have it smooth. You can feel the paint getting smooth as you sand. Look from all angles to see any rounded non sanded areas. That means you need to sand more. If new paint, remove orange peel, waves,, and sags.


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Comment:
  All of this will look better when the car is outside and the seats and all are back in. There is not much contrast in the booth, as for dark and lights. These is mainly lights, and the reflections aren't as brilliant. You'll see when I bring out the car, and finish the outside.

  Now, I might have to re paint the hood and the trunk lid. I can see some places I missed when puttying. If it's too loud, I will have to re sand and paint the hood and the trunk lid. If I do, that will most likely be next year.... We will see..
You Tube Nav ID Paint Imaging The Inside (Dash, Doors top and bottom)


Paint Imaging The Inside (Dash, Doors, Top and Bottom)

(Opens in new window)

Paint Imaging The Inside

06-29-15

  Now that we are waiting for the paint to cure. We start on the stuff that was waiting for this time. I would like to have all the buffing, painting, and all ready for re installing. I will most likely be doing that also while I am imaging sanding the body. That will take some time. So, here's whats in store for the past three days working on the bumpers.

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Comment:
  After a clean up of the bumper. We see about what we can do with the rust dots. We give paint a try, dotting.... This might work, but we also must remove the surrounding paint around the rust dots.

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Comment:
  Three bolts had problems getting them off. I used some leverage to help the job go easier. PB Blaster too, and heavy.

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Comment:
  This one bolt I had to cut off. That's two new bolts I have to get for this bumper. Removing it from the car one broke. Remember?.

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Comment:
  All of the mounting brackets, four of them, were all rusted just like this one. That was the way I removed them from the car.

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Comment:
  All of the rust must be removed as much as possible. I grinded all, and then I use a wire brush on a air tool. Then, painted.

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Comment:
  Better, still some flaws. The bumpers did bump some time ago. What they bumped I do not know. However, they can be hammered back but the existing chrome will be even more damaged. However, if I do rechrome, I should be able to fix those damaged areas. If not hammered back, but welded full and grinded. That is, IF I have the $$ to rechome someday. Cheaper than purchasing new or re chromed...
You Tube Nav ID Try to fix the bumpers (Best I can do)


Trying To Fix The Bumpers (Best I can do)

(Opens in new window)

Paint Imaging The Inside

07-01-15

  Well, time to get to all the other stuff. The straglers, the ever so important little items. These I saved just for this time. The seat rails, license plate light holder, the old style jack. Yes, I have it complete with the stand, spare wheel strap and the hand bolt to keep it all nice and neat.

  I am sure there will be more as I go through the storage places. Hopefully, I will also get the buffing done, so when we put the car back together, all will be ready, painted, so there is no delay. This is whats been going on for the past few days. Here's a picture, and of course, a video.

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Comment:
  Working on the seat rails. The severly rusted bolt will not hammer out. Most likely they were pressed in. So, I had to grind down the rest of the bolt and the head in order to make room for a new one. Then, drill a new hole.

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Comment:
  Getting the parts ready to paint. After going over with a wire brush, it's clean with thinner.

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Comment:
  The old school bumper jack. Working, and re-painted. Will I actually use it?. I don't think so, although I may in an emergency maybe.

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Comment:
  The base of the old school car jack... These are dangerious to use. You also need to chock the tires too when using these.
You Tube Nav ID Misc Repairs And Paint Parts (Odds and Ends)


Misc Repairs And Paint Parts (Odds and Ends)

(Opens in new window)

Misc repairs And Paint Parts

07-02-15

  Things must get done before we start imaging the new paint. It's time to image the pass side doors. The top part and the bottom part inside. The inbetween is the pannel, the paint there is for protection. A short video on this. Not exciting, or even interesting, but, here it is anyway. Someone in the world might need to see this... Here are some pictures, and a short video.

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Comment:
  Sanding with 1500 first, than 2000, then 3000, than rubbing compound, then wax. Yea, in that order.

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Comment:
  You want to sand off all the orange peel looking and dull new paint. The dull paint is not sprayed on wet.

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Comment:
  Looks better... A smooth surface will produce "In Focus" reflections, otherwise, the reflections are a blur, and not reconized.
You Tube Nav ID Imaging The Pass Side Door (Rain Day Odd And End)


Imaging The Pass Side Door (Rain Day Odd And End)

(Opens in new window)

Imaging The Pass Side Door

07-03-15

  Time to image up the steering wheel. This is difficult. All the hills, and crannies can't be sanded to the primer. BTY, it is a special primer for rubber-plastic so the paint will stick. The wax, (after) will make a shell to help divert ware on the paint. Anyway, here's this session. And, here's a video.

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Comment:
  Make yourself somekind of decent stand. The wheel will be on it for quite some time.... Now, sand the same way as anyother imaging operation except don't sand down to the primer. There will be places that are shallow in paint. No matter how much paint you think is there. But, if you painted like super lot, I will still be careful. Sand just enough, Stay away from the crannies, lines, and creases. Just a few time over thats it.

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Comment:
  Applying the compound here... Looks smoother now, will look even smoother with a couple of coats of wax.

May need to also see previous page.
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© 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
You need permission to use or distribute any information on this web site.

Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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