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Working on brake lines.

New shoes, springs, and cylinders too!.

New, new new...

The nut and bolt wall of painting.

New again, as it was in 1962.

Painted. Complete.

primer on the rear and roof.

Roofing. Sand, primer.

The cowl, sand, primer and paint.

The sticker from PA.

Cleaning for painting.

Body work on the rockers.

Painting the dash also.

Primer, edging, and the doors.

Primer on the doors, and edging.

Some paint around the edging, and other difficult places.

Buffing the stainless trim.

Bumping out the dents.

Making the dash trim templet for the holes.

making the dash trim holes.

painting the dash.

Buffing the rear trim.

Sanding for another coat.

Masking for floor painting.

The couch for the material.

remove, and replace.

Homemade buffer machine.

driving past a speed trap.

repaired mud deviders.

Wildwood summer drive.

Welding in new pocket-well metal.

paint the underside.

Rear suspension back on.

Protect the sun from my head.

Nasty rusting.

A seat screw from 1962.

Painting the front wall.

The front wheel well, is done.

The other done wheel well.

Front wall is also done.

Rusted mud deviders.

Painting additional items.

Lot's to restore here.

May need to also see previous page.

Continued from page 64. Imaging The Steering Wheel.

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  The horn ring is not on yet. Seems chrome and aluminum shows off the contrast. But, you can see the shine..
You Tube Nav ID Imaging The Steering Wheel (Another Rain Day Task)

Imaging The Steering Wheel (Another Rain Day Task)

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Imaging The Steering Wheel


  This video is very special. "Gas Tank Gauge Work". For many years in the auto restoration realm, there has always been "Gas Gauge" problems haunting many. They say it's the sender not made to specs. The gauge would read empty when there is actually a 1/2 tank.

  Well, a few years ago I changed out my tank and sender from the original. Remember that video?. I too purchased the well known "Yellow Wire" sender, as it is the only one available. I am sure it's used in other model cars too. I at first, had the same problem. As I drive the car in and out for working on the car, the gauge started reading empty. I had to get it fixed.

  There is nothing wrong with the "yellow Wire" sender. It's the way we all been installing the tank back into the car. Here's some pictures, but you really need to watch the video to understand the solution. Use your pause, and back up if you need to. There is many out there that questions the cure, but, I do know, the cure worked for me. When I hear of another person whom did the same thing. I will post the outcome here.

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  Draining the gas, removing the tank. Several, Several times in order to find the answer. The tank was drained and removed, re installed about 5 times.

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  Even the gas, we put it in for testing, and had to remove it. 5 times.

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  The answer is: before connecting the ground wire, isolate the tank from the body. I used rubber garage door bottom, and also covered the original square connector block from the tank. This becomes unuseable as time goes by. Paint it, than insulate it with rubber. I used a piece of vinyl-rubber wall board material.

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  The rubber, glued to the underside of the trunk, on the most outter stress pressing of the trunk. Make sure you make them long enough to also go past the seating of the tank point. You will also need to cut a complete rubber strip to place inbetween the bottom tank straps. No other place can touch the tank except the pig tail connection that you installed on the tank going to the body, the ground.

  The original tank (from 1962) I did have, and there were two rubber blocks on the rear of the tank, on each side. There was also rubber insulating strips inbetween the mounting straps and the tank. At the time, I did not see the need for them. The tank was discarded but I did not save the rubber blocks. I also did not save the tank rubber strap insulators. If your car is original (ALL original) and you too change out the tank, keep these insulators. If they are cracked and bad, make new ones, or do what I did.

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  After we did the tank isolation, We checked to make sure the tank is truly isolated. Disconnect the sender, and read with a digital ohm meter from the tanks ground point to the car. Should read 0.00 ohms. Then, connect the sender and read again from the ground point to the body. CAR IS OFF Should read about 95 ohms. If all is good, re connect the sender and put about 6 gallons of gas in the tank. Turned on the key. Gauge went a little past empty?... Nice so far. If not, try another gallon or so.

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  Then, we added another 2 gallons of gas and re checked. The gauge is now reading 1/4 tank!.

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  Okay, added another 2.5 gallons, and the gauge reads 1/2. Between empty and a 1/2 is where the interest is. The gauge seems to be working, and working right.
You Tube Nav ID Gas Tank Gauge Work (Finally, The Answer Discovered)

Gas Tank Gauge Work (Finally, The Answer Discovered)

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Gas Tank Gauge Work


  While we wait for the paint to cure there are several buffing things we must do. Need to get back to the grille, and some chrome trim. This completes all of the buffing on the aluminum, stainless and chrome. I think I did them all...

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  The handels, and some inside chrome had to be cleaned, and shined up. necessary.. I will look for some better handels.

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  Finally, the grille buffing up. I also re did the black flat masking just like I did the headlight covers.

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  Found the matching paint for the mirror. After sanding, and cleaning, we paint the mirror.

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  The 1/4 panel dash mark trim. They really turned out good.

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  All the other parts here look good except a couple of the handels. Some have pitting, and is noticeable. Maybe I can locate a set somewhere.
You Tube Nav ID Buffing Up The Grille And Parts (More To Do Before Imaging)

Buffing Up The Grille And Parts (More To Do Before Imaging)

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Buffing Up The Grille And Parts


  We are finally getting very close. But, there is still imaging to do. This video is the imaging on the roof, hood, cowl, and top fenders. The top of the front is imaged. Next day off we start the top of the doors. For now, here's the video.

  This is the video where I reveal the make of the paint. It's not car paint. Yea, I said it's not car paint. But, it is a very good metal paint. If ya wanna know, click the link provided below. Leaving a comment below also if you like. If your checking from the You Tube video. Please leave some element of surprise on the You Tube Video comments other than saying the answer. Okay?.

  Don't ruin the element of suprise for someone else.

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  Imaging the roof. Sanding 1500, sanding 2000, sanding 3000. Compound. Lightly, small 1 foot by 1 foot area, just stroks up and down, and then take it off. Don't let it dry.

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  Like a mirror. Thats the image your looking for. No out of focus images. bright, clear, reflections. Sweet!.

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  Now, we get to the sag. Remember. This took several hours. Slow going...

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  Nice. There are some dips. I will re paint when I'm fully retired. I plan on it... Just a few more years...

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  The top of the front is now imaged up. Cowl, Hood, Fenders and the roof.
You Tube Nav ID Imaging The Body Paint (1/4 of the car done))

Imaging The Body Paint (1/4 of the car done)

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Imaging The Body Paint

What paint? What paint? You painted the car with what?.

  If you want to know what type and what make paint I used for this 1962 Ford fairlane 500. Click below. This link will take you to a special non listed page revealing the type and make of paint. If you plan to leave a message on the You Tube video, Please do not give away the make and type. If you do, I will be forced to either delete it, or name it spam. Please leave the element of surprise for the next person inquirering.

  You can also leave a comment on the Paint Revealed page. Click the link below to see the make paint and to leave a comment there.

Click here to find out...       (Opens in new window)

What paint? What paint?

May need to also see previous page.

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© 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
You need permission to use or distribute any information on this web site.

Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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